Hi guys and welcome back. I know it’s been a little while since I posted on here but we’re back in NYC and I’m so excited to get back to our regular schedule again. If you were following me over on Instagram (@retroflame) you’ll know it was a bit of hectic month for me. Trips home are always busier than we anticipate but this one was really non-stop. That’s why I’m SO glad we were able to fit in a little family holiday at the end of the trip. We were chatting about it for months so while we were home we finally booked the trip to visit two places that had been on our list for years – Capri & Positano. The whole trip & places actually exceeded all of our expectations and lots of you had questions about various aspects of it so today I wanted to share a full breakdown/ Capri & Positano travel guide. Hopefully this will help any of you looking to travel there. I’m already dying to go back – to seriously special places.
HOW WE GOT THERE
So lets start with the basics and how we actually travelled there. This was the part that was the most daunting to plan for us but it was actually very smooth in the end. We drove from Kerry to Dublin as David, Kaelin’s boyfriend, had to drop back a car he was renting which was very handy. We then flew from Dublin to Naples which took around 3 hours. When we arrived in Naples we got a 20 minute taxi to the port and from there got the ferry to our first stop Capri which took about 45 minutes. After three days in Capri we got the ferry to Positano which also took about 45 minutes. When leaving Positano we drove back to Naples airport which took 2 hours and from there we flew back to Dublin. Luckily our flight time lined up with the Dublin to Kerry flight so were able to avoid driving down which was great. All in all we thought the traveling thoughtout the trip was a lot easier than it sounded so definitely don’t let it put you off.
WHERE WE STAYED
We booked our accommodations very last minute so we were pleasantly surprised by how nice both were. In Capri we stayed in Hotel Syrene. The location of this hotel could not have been more ideal for our stay. When you arrive at the port you do have to get a short taxi ride and walk a little bit but definitely not the worst. You can organize for people to pick up your luggage if you want but we just carried it. Also as a side note the driving in Italy is a bit crazy so be prepared for that. We were scared for our lives in the taxi haha! The hotel was really quaint with gorgeous typical Italian interiors. The staff were lovely and very helpful too. It also had a pool which Dad and David really enjoyed. As I mentioned the location was brilliant – only a 3 minute walk to the main square and so near all the stunning shops. I would definitely stay again.
As for Positano we decided to book a villa to have a little more space. We went with a place called Villa Theile which had three bedrooms and the most gorgeous balcony. However, this one was definitely a little harder to get to when we got to the port in Positano. There was no taxi rank nearby so we had to walk a good bit to find one. If you’ve been to Positano you will know how extreme the hills and steps are so this was not easy with all of our bags. The taxi then dropped us to sister hotel of the villa and we had to walk a little more (including more steps). Needless to say we were tired by the time we got there haha! The view definitely made up for all the the steps though – it was just as breathtaking as I imagined.
WHERE WE ATE
I can honestly say that we did not have one bad meal during the trip. Italian food is all of our favorites so we were in our element. Below is a breakdown of the restaurants we tried in in each place.
Ai Faraglioni: On our first day we stumbled across this restaurant which was just a few doors down from our hotel so we decided to book it for that night. The portions were a little on the smaller side but the food was so tasty. If you do go there ask for one of the booths at the front. The staff were great too!
La Fontelina: This is a beach club that I had been recommended to go to so on our second day we walked there for lunch. I had read that you needed to make a reservation weeks in advance but luckily it was a little quieter that day and we got a table. Definitely a brilliant spot to go for a full day too if you had time. You can book sunbeds in advance as far as I’m aware.
Mamma: We booked this Michelin star restaurant to celebrate our parents 30th anniversary. It was one I had on my list going so I was really excited to try it. It’s definitely one of the fancier (& more expensive) places we ate in but the food and service were great.
Bar Tiberio: This is a quaint bar in the square of Capri that we would grab a drink in before or after dinner. Really great people watching spot and the espresso martinis were amazing!
Aurora: I saved this one for our last night cause I had heard so much about it. Apparently it’s Beyonce’s favorite when she visits and I can see why. Once again the food was delicious and it was just a nice authentic experience. Probably my favourite that we ate in, in Capri!
Buonocore Gelateria: Renowned as the best ice cream in Capri, this place definitely lived up to the hype. Be prepared to queue though!
Lo Guarracino: When we arrived in Positano we were pretty hungry after the trip so we decided to eat in the first place that we saw which happened to be this restaurant. After we sat down I realized it had actually been recommended to me and I can definitely see why. It was my dad and Kaelin’s favorite meal from the entire trip and the views were just incredible. Such a gem as it’s a little off the beaten track but definitely one I would try getting to if you can.
Il Fornillo: This place was actually right next to where we were staying so we decided to try it on the first night when we were a little tired. Only later on in the trip did we realize it was actually a really popular restaurant. It was really quaint and I loved my dish. Sometimes the ones you stumble across are the best!
Franco’s Bar: This is one of the most famous spots in Capri to grab a drink. The doors open at 5:30 and it’s full within minutes as people beginning queuing before 5pm. We luckily made it in time and only had to queue for about 10 minutes but to be honest I think it’s a little overrated. There are places with just as nice a view if you walk up a little further so definitely consider that if you don’t want to wait in line.
La Sponda: I tried booking this restaurant for my birthday a week before we left for Italy but unfortunately I was waitlisted. It’s in a really popular hotel called ‘La Sireuse’ so I wasn’t totally surprised but definitely a little disappointed. So we decided to go somewhere else and just as we were about to leave I got a call saying there was a cancellation. I’m still so thankful to whoever cancelled because I can honestly say it was probably my favorite dining experience ever! I’ve never had service like it and the presentation of everything was on another level. Not to mention the atmosphere and views. So so special and one that will be hard to top for further birthdays. Definitely try to book it in advance if you can – you won’t be sorry.
Collina Bakery: This was a little bakery right in the middle of town where we grabbed coffee one day. The coffee was extremely strong so I’m not going to lie, I didn’t love it but on the last day I went back for ice cream and it was the best I’ve ever had. That might sound dramatic but it honestly was. I got the hazelnut flavor and I only wish I knew about it earlier. I would have gotten it twice a day haha!
Tre Sorelle: My parents always seem to find one place they love everywhere we go and this time it was this wine bar. They are creatures of habit so we ended up going there every night for one drink before dinner. We always got a cheese plate as well and I must admit it was lovely little ritual each evening.
Il Captiano: For David’s birthday (his is the day after mine funnily enough) we ate in this restaurant. We had passed it earlier in the day and thought it would be lovely for our last night as it’s right above the water so you can imagine the views. The menu told the story about how a man called ‘Il Captiano’ and his family founded the restaurant which was such a lovely touch. Live music played as we ate and the food was really good (I keep saying that but we honestly didn’t have a bad meal thankfully) Definietly one I would put on your list if you can – I think it would be stunning for lunch too.
WHAT WE GOT UP TO
Boat Trip Around Capri: We did this on our last day in Capri and it was so lovely. We got to see the famous faraglioni rocks, went swimming and took in so many good views. The only downfall was that the water was a little choppy that day so maybe check the weather before you decide which day you will do it.
Shopping: I can’t even tell you how good the shopping was in Capri. Every designer store you can think of is there and although I didn’t buy anything it was just so nice to window shop. Mom & Kaelin also treated me to Chanel earrings for my birthday while we were there which was very special. They will always remind me of Capri now.
Walking: On one of our days we took off on a walk to the beach club I mentioned earlier in the post. This was actually so so nice as the weather wasn’t too hot. We passed some of the nicest views I’ve ever seen and it was just lovely to wander and get a little lost. No better place to do it.
Beach Day: On my birthday we decided to do a beach day. We originally had planned to go to the most famous beach in Positano called Spaggia Grande. However, when we got there I just felt it was far too busy so we went to a quieter beach nearer to where we were staying called ‘Fornillo’. I was so happy we decided to do this as we had the most relaxing day there. Definitely one of my highlights from the entire trip.
More Shopping: As I mentioned the designer shopping in Capri was brilliant but Positano had more of the quaint Italian shops which in my opinion were just as good. You may have seen over on my Instagram that I even purchased some prints for the apartment and I’m happy to confirm they made it back to NYC in one piece. I’m so happy to have them as tokens from the trip!
Exploring: On our last day we took off for breakfast quite early and explored Positano well into the afternoon. I’m not going to lie, it took me a day or two to warm to Positano but I can’t deny that doing this on the last day really made me understand the hype. It truly is such a beautiful place and I love that even though it is quite touristy it hasn’t lost its pure Italian magic just yet. I already can’t wait to return!
MY TOP TIPS
– Be ready for lots of steps/ hills, especially in Positano. People had warned us but they are worse than you expect. So don’t be silly like me and forget to pack comfy shoes. On the upside it definitely makes eating all of the bread & pasta a little more guilt free.
– Pack as lightly as possible. You will most lightly have to drag your bags up said hills/steps so try to pack lightly. You will thank yourself later.
– Make reservations in advance for any restaurants you really want to try. They do expect them in most places even if it’s not too busy. Better to avoid any disappointment.
– If you want to travel to other towns during your trip make sure to check the ferry times in advance to see that they suit. If you plan out your days you can be sure you are making the most go the trip.
I really hope find you find this post informative. I tried to include as much as possible but definitely feel free to comment below or DM me if you have any other questions? Definitely a trip to remember – so so grateful that we were able to make it happen.